CANOE TRIP IN ALGONQUIN PARK -
FOLLOW UP REPORT
September 1990
2.5 Days, 2 People
Summary
Summary
September 1 to 3 1990, We, Pieter Leenhouts and
Kyle Woods took a canoe trip through Algonquin Park. We paddled a loop, starting
at the Sproule Bay access point at the Southern tip of Opeongo (Ope) Lake;
proceeding through a portage to Proulx Lake; down a windy and weedy part of
Crow River to Little Crow Lake; and then to Big Crow Lake where we stayed for
the first night. The next day we proceeded down the Crow through six short
portages and a windy stretch of river to Crow Bay of Lavieille Lake; through Lavieille,
Hardy Bay, and over a short portage to Dickson Lake where we stayed for the
second night. On the last day we continued through a 5.3 Km. portage to
Bonfield Lake; a portage to Wright Lake; then the last portage back to Ope; and
then paddled back to Sproule Bay dock.
Preparations: prior to the trip we had only been
out twice together on test runs in the canoe on Lac Duchesne on the Ottawa R.
We went out on the previous Sunday morning when we paddled about 6 km. in 1
hour and 15 min. On the previous Wednesday morning we encountered high waves of
1 - 2 ft. The canoe had taken on quite a bit of water due to the high winds and
the spray from the paddles. The map, our clothes and PFD were drenched.
The rudder failed as its yoke came off due to the wave motion. On the return trip with a starboard aft wind it was very
difficult to steer the desired course without going broadside to the wind and
waves.[Later learned that this can be corrected by changing the trim of the kayak by shifting the loads.]
Because of these trials we improved the rudder somewhat and built a splash cover for the cockpit. We were somewhat apprehensive when considering the distances planned and we hoped to accomplish which was 80 km. and 9.7 km of portages in total.
Because of these trials we improved the rudder somewhat and built a splash cover for the cockpit. We were somewhat apprehensive when considering the distances planned and we hoped to accomplish which was 80 km. and 9.7 km of portages in total.
Aug. 30 - the splash covers were complete. The
sticky-backed Velcro did not stick to the waterproof nylon sheeting so it had
to be sown on.
Aug. 31 - the primer bulb bilge pump (used for priming outboard
engines) was installed. We bought all our food which came to $55.00 after
taking Christina and Patrick to the Hillside park in Lynwood Village. The
"Woods Bag" was in need of repair since the seams were rotting in
places.
In planning a trip with this type of gear it would
be better to plan for fewer portages. In a kayak, the length of portage is not as
critical as is the number of them. It is in switching over and repacking that much
time is lost.
Chronology
Sept 1,05:50 - left Bells Corners in the dark driving
the '73 VW camper.
09:30 - Arrived at Sproule Bay dock. Managed to
sail with a tailwind for about 5 km, half way through Ope L. using the paddles as masts and
the nylon kitchen fly as a sail.
16:00 - Arrived at Big Crow Lake and our chosen
campsite. We swam, had supper and pitched camp. We found out now that we forgot
our frozen foods; margarine, bacon, cold cuts and cheese. Supper was Magic Pantry chili; granola bars and tea and it was good.
19:30 - I paddled across the lake to a ranger cabin
near a fire tower where 3 students were staying. Back in the day, this was the cabin of the forest ranger that manned the fire tower. Despite that the lowest 20 feet of ladder rungs were removed, I
managed to climb the ~100' tower, and reached the top just at dusk. The windows and
trap door were removed. It felt a bit rickety. The view was spectacular nonetheless and
worth the climb. To the north I could see lightning. Back at camp by 20:30.
We visited with campers at a nearby campsite. While
chatting around their campfire, they asked if we might have seen albino moose,
and also if they are carnivorous. Must be folks from the city. More exposure to
the out-of-doors would do them good.
22:40 - Ready for bed, lights out. Our backs are
sore but we did well. After assessing our progress, it looks like we will
continue around our proposed loop.
Sept. 2,6:30 - Up, had breakfast and cleared camp.
We saw a very tall gangling doglike animal trot into our campsite during
breakfast to all of our surprises at which point it darted off. It didn't really look like a wolf but then
it certainly was not a fox nor a coyote. It was much too tall for that. A
chipmunk was up close at breakfast robbing our trail mix.
8:30 - Casted off for a run down the Crow R.
A.M. - Saw a cow moose up ahead on the river who
let us get quite close, however once broadside she would rush out ahead and wouldn’t
let us quietly drift by with the current. It was hard to shake her for a good
1/2 km. It was scary as she came quite close and any contact with her hooves
would have easily capsized our kayak.
12:25 - Arrived at the last of the 6 Crow R. portages
and had lunch. This portaging is slow going, possibly because of low water and navigating
the bends in the river. Also, sliding the canoe over logs or beaver dams was
slow and cumbersome.
18:00 - After paddling Crow Bay, Lake Lavieille, and
Hardy Bay we arrived at the short 90-metre portage to Dickson lake. During this
stretch we had a stiff headwind and took on a fair bit of water and pumped
several cups of water out of the kayak. The kayak with its lower profile and
decking performed very well though, and we were able to keep paddling and make continuous
headway. Another party of canoes were severely hampered by the wind and waves.
18:45 - We arrived at our chosen campsite which
was very nice; not far from the start of the 5.3 km. portage. We had a long day
and arrived much later than expected. We took the canoe out to dry the bottom.
Supper was Magic Pantry - chili it was spicy but
good with tea and granola bars. (The granola can get to you if you have too
much.)
The bilge pump and splash cover were indispensable
although more Velcro and pressure snaps for the cover would really help. Also
some slack in the cover would keep the Velcro on better. In Bill Mason's book his
canoe covers have belt buckles would be good because of the adjustability. Suggest
bringing twice as much trail mix next time.
The day’s weather: In the morning it was overcast
grey with a little sprinkle as we started the first portage. It cleared mid-afternoon
and was all clear and cool at night. It was very windy on Lake Lavieille with a
north wind which made for a rocky crossing since we paddled on the leeward or south
side of the lake.
Sept. 3 - Had to repair two small holes in the
canoe, one in the stern keel and one at a previous puncture. The Fiberglass
resin worked well. The heat of the radiating sun helped speed the drying of the
resin. The canoe was bone dry all day.
9:30 - Left campsite for the portage a short
paddle away.
9:50 - Began the trek over the 5.3 km. long portage;
completed it by 11:40. Kyle carried the bags. I carried the canoe as the yoke
was giving him trouble with his shoulder. After two more small lakes and two
more short portages we arrived at Ope.
Along the way we met two Stelco employees. They
had a Sawyer canoe and racing (bent) paddles and seemed to be taking it easy. The
setup was very effective. We also met three students at first a Big Crow lake
and we frequently crossed paths.
12:30 - We paddled Ope in about 2 1/2 to 3 hours
and arrived at Sproule Bay dock at about 16:00.
We stopped for coffee, donuts, and muffins in Whitney.
19:30 - Made it home to Bells Corners.
We then measured the weight of the Canoe at 62 lbs
and the bag at 25 lbs. Bag was about 70 lbs at the start, estimated.
The day's weather: It was clear and sunny with
some cumulus clouds and calm, in all a beautiful day.
The Canoe or Sea Kayak
We used a PBK 18 which is a canvas covered canoe
17 and 1/2 feet long designed by Percy Blandford, Naval Architect in England.
The craft is a wooden bird cage frame with a canvas shell sealed by regular
exterior house paint. It was built in the summer of 1974. The Canoe (or kayak)
was rarely used while I was at away at College and often poorly stored
exposed to the elements.
In the summer of 1987, the canoe was repaired and
a new shell put on. Most of that work was done in Sandy Point N.S. near
Shelburne. Later that summer I took it solo down the Restigouche in Northern
New Brunswick from Upsalquich R. to Campbellton (25 mi. or 40 km) in about 4 hours.
It was great going down a fast river. On a subsequent and short trip down the
Mississippi near Lanark Ont. The canoe was severely damaged, with a number of
holes and some broken stringer sections. It was during low water and paddled with
Don Hall, also a not-so-small person. That damage was subsequently repaired.
Travel Gear
The following is a record of experiences acquired
with the equipment with suggested modifications for a more successful future trip.
Canoe:
Major change: a higher and wider cockpit design
and possibly hatches fore and aft for access.
Minor change: larger holes in cross frames fore
and aft for access to store gear.
More bent ribs fore and aft would help keep
the shape of hull stringers.
Canoe splash covers:
Minor change: more Velcro and pressure snaps and a
slacker application, ideally more adjustable e.g. buckles.
Rudder system:
minor change: should be redesigned to be able to
remove and securely store the blade out of the water completely for portaging
and in shallow water and so that the rudder stock will not catch rocks. Sliding
over a rock tore the rudder stock off the stern.
Yoke/back rest:
Minor change: notches carved in the coaming frame
to position the yoke -- a board carved to fit ones shoulders and tied by a strap around the canoe -- and keep it from sliding fore or aft, and yoke could be designed
more smoothly to fit the shoulders better during portages.
Paddles: ok
PFDs: ok
Painter: ok
Bailer/sponge: sponge not too effective nor was it
necessary,
Minor change: bailer-primer bulb worked great but
must be tied in by detachable straps.
Backpack #1 (No.2 Woods Bag with Tumpline): better to
have all the gear stored inside with some compartments. Solution would be a
second smaller pack placed on top with no frame and with pockets; and to have a
second bundle consisting of bedrolls and tent tied together placed on top.
Canoe repair kit: duct tape and fibreglass resin
came in very useful. (glass fibre, fibre glass resin, piece of canvas, extra
brass screws, sail needle and thread, copper tacks, no. of nails) great.
Miscellaneous Gear
Satchel: bigger and deeper or replace by small
knapsack
Compass: ok, ought to consider one with automatic
declination and grid correction
Map(s), NTS 1:50,000 topo maps: ok, were protected in Ziploc
bags which was perfect. Had route magnetic compass bearings drawn on each leg.
This saved us considerable trouble as we used the compass for dead reckoning to
cross large lakes. For a much longer trip this may call for an exceedingly
large number of maps.
Nature field guides: hardly used but handy
occasionally.
Notebook & Pencil: ok.
Binoculars: smaller and lighter would be better.
Camera: likewise, or go all out and bring SLR
camera with telephoto lens.
Map of the Canoe Route
